Friday, November 19, 2004

12/11/04: diwali in jaipur


we decide to climb the tiger fort to overlook the lit-up city and the fireworks of diwali. one rickshaw, one car, two scooters.. the car and one of the scooters manage to make it to the top: 50% success. i'm among the lucky ones.

from here you remark how big the city is - and you think of how many people should be on the streets down there to make all that noise. standing on the hill and looking at the sea of lights blinking at you, you try to figure out if this could really be anywhere, any city, in any part of the planet. the answer is probably yes until you descend the hill into narrow streets of the pink city.

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the city is more vibrant than ever now. people shopping, eating, cooking, or mostly just strolling around. cows, cows, cows, pigs, occasionally camels and a couple of elephants. music is broadcast into the city from a central system, and interrupted by advertisements every couple of minutes: "laxmi pipes, the best pipes in rajasthan, now with special diwali discounts..." and then something else, maybe the same one - this time in hindi.

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photos shot from a moving car.


we decide to go to nepali, where we eat at least a couple of evenings a week, and do the mistake of sitting at the rooftop. sound of the crackers is now so unbearable that i feel the need to stuff something (napkins, to be more precise) into my ears. burning pieces of fireworks occasionally fall onto the table, so we have to watch out after every sound - it's quite a big possibility to be the target of falling pieces. we're talking of how many people should be dying or losing body parts every diwali. such a chaos, such a big waste of money, and absolutely no safety precautions of any sort; but people are happy. the risks are quite negligible in a context where it's perfectly normal to proudly advertise "firecrackers made without child labour."

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